buy

How to CORRECTLY choose your PC Parts

what's up guys J soos ends here and I'm

gonna do something that I've never done

on this channel but I promise you that I

would we're gonna do a little bit of a

build guide in terms of picking parts

I'm gonna give us that budget and we're

gonna kind of go through here and talk

about picking the parts and how to make

sure things are compatible and to sort

of give you a little bit of a guide at a

price point but more importantly

everyone talks about how to build the

tower but realistically with the most

common questions that we get on this

channel isn't about building the tower

it's about picking the parts so today we

are bringing you J's PC part picking 101

that's the first class in college

courses and let's go to Community

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description below alright so the way I'm

gonna do this here is I'm gonna use new

egg to kind of build my cart it's kind

of messed up I guess but new egg has

pretty much every part in the industry

there and now what I'll do is I'll take

that parts list and I will kind of shop

it against other retailers and eat

Ahlers to try and get the best prices

yes I'm well aware that PC part picker

does this but PC part picker also uses

pretty much any e-tailer kind of like

anywhere including some that i've never

even heard of and I'm not comfortable

buying from a tailor's that I've never

heard of so this is a way I'm gonna do

it if you want to use PC part picker to

do the very same thing you certainly can

I just tend to do manual price shopping

because I like it better so what we're

gonna do is we're not gonna talk so much

about the parts we're picking we're

gonna talk about why we're picking the

parts we're picking so this isn't

necessarily gonna be a cookie cutter

parts list although at the end of this

video we will show you the way we spent

the thousand dollars which is the price

point that I've chosen for this first

video of trying to bring you these ways

to think about shopping it's designed to

help you think about the way to choose

these parts not so much what we what we

chose the most expensive single part

you're going to pretty much buy is gonna

be well especially if you're doing a

gaming system is going to be your video

card or your

it's part the way I tend to budget for

this is I tend to have it be anywhere

between thirty to forty percent of the

total cost of the system so if I'm

building a thousand dollar system it

means I've got between three and four

hundred dollars to spend on a graphics

card without having to make too many

sacrifices somewhere else in the budget

to then get everything to fit because

remember there's like seven main

components that you have to get into

your system you've got to get your CPU

your RAM your motherboard your graphics

card your storage your power supply and

your case so those are seven components

technically eight if you do it the way I

do it which is going to be an SSD as

well as a large capacity spinning hard

drive so by sticking within that thirty

to forty percent budget ratio it means

that I'm not gonna have to make too many

sacrifices later on based on those seven

or eight components I just mentioned so

it makes it pretty easy though with

Newegg you can just sort by your price

and it actually works out really well

because on the left-hand side right here

if we scroll down to our sorting we can

go right to 300 to 400 dollars so since

we know that $1000 is our total budget

I'm shopping within that particular

price point and what I'd like to do is I

tend to kind of price my my GPU to be no

more than 50% of the total budget of the

system but usually it's gonna fall

between more like thirty and forty

percent of the total costs of your

system so it's going to be the single

most expensive part so the next most

expensive thing you're probably gonna

spend on your system is gonna be your

CPU and your motherboard combo now

depending on where you're shopping you

can find a lot of combo deals and Isis I

basically recommend finding the CPU that

you want to go with Neysa

based on what your tasks are gonna be

and I already know that within this

thousand dollar price point the best

performance to price ratio is going to

be with AMD AMD's Rison what you need to

know though once you decide on which

part you want to go with is you need

your socket type to be compatible and

it's kind of simple now with AMD because

all the mainstream stuff is am 4 plus

and because of the forward and backwards

compatibility AMD's promised till about

2022 I think it is it means anything am

four plus is gonna be compatible with

each other now there are some caveats to

that caveat caveat there there are some

exceptions to that you can take a newer

generation rise in CPU and pair it with

an older generation Rison

so although you can go backwards

compatible like that and save some money

I tend to make sure I stick with a

generation of CPU and motherboard that

are matched or at least go with a newer

motherboard than the current CPU that

I'm with if they are compatible with

each other if you're not the kind of

person that's looking at changing this

in the next year or two and you're a

five-year builder plus you you aim for

that five year mark of having the CPU or

the PC last then this is kind of

irrelevant to you and if you make sure

you stick with the same generation CPU

and motherboard then it means that

you're gonna guarantee that all the

features of the CPU that you have are

there and unlocked and ready to go and

the motherboards built to the capacity

it needs to be built to to support the

particular CPU that you've put in there

so for the motherboard we actually chose

the MSI B 450 tomahawk max and we chose

that for a couple of reasons

one we've used it in the past several

times actually and it's a very well

designed well built and a very good

value of a motherboard it doesn't have

the highest chipset series for the CPU

that we selected that's because we also

didn't go with the highest end CPU from

the generation that we could have so

it's a pretty well matched motherboard

to CPU now the CPU we actually chose was

the AMD Rison 520 600 X it's a six core

12 thread CPU 4.2 gigahertz turbo clock

it's more than enough horsepower to do

live streaming gaming video rendering

just it's a really well-rounded

all-around CPU and we save some money

because it's not the latest generation

of CPU from AMD and because it's still

available with current support and a

really slash price it's really hard to

beat its performance to price ratio but

that also means going with a super

high-end motherboard that has all these

features designed for like the 3,700 X

which we're not using makes no sense it

would be wasted money the be 450

tomahawk max gives us four dimm slots

that we can expand our memory later on

if we go with a dual channel kit now

which means if we went with a cheaper

motherboard we wouldn't be able to do

that unless we replace both sticks of

rams so for now for this build we're

gonna go with two sticks of RAM and then

the option to add more later so memory

is pretty simple you're not getting

gouged like you were two years ago

there's no huge memory shortage around

the world and it's $200

sixteen gigabytes or $100 plus for a

single 8 gigabyte stick you can now get

16 gigabytes for well under 100 bucks in

fact we're looking right now all I did

was search ddr4 one of the first ones

that comes up right here is a $69 set of

2 times 8 gigabyte DIMMs a 32 hundred

megahertz ram from g.skill ripjaws when

it comes to shopping for ram first gen

Rison definitely benefited from its

fastest memory as you could get that was

because of the Infinity fabric and the

way that the chip let's all talk to each

other that's kind of changed now with

the 2000 series it was not nearly as

important but still somewhat impactful

on performance in the 3000 series we

we're not really seeing much of an

important performance benefit or hit by

speeding up or slowing it down with

intel on the other hand the faster the

memory it really goes well with the high

over clocks that you can get with Intel

CPUs so I tend to find the sweet spot to

be right around to be honest 3000

megahertz but if your budget can't

afford it 2666 is gonna be just fine

it's easy to overspend on memory by

going I want the fastest memory possible

but again unless you're using very

memory intensive niche tasks that are

gonna need the superfast megahertz

ratings of memory with very tight

timings I think in a blind taste test

you'd have a hard time seeing 2666

versus 4000 and just basic computing

you're never gonna notice it so when it

comes to memory though you obviously are

gonna want to go with dual channel if

you've got a dual channel motherboard or

if you're running like an X platform on

either a thread ripper or Intel then

you're gonna want one stick per channel

and those are four channel systems see

we need four sticks to make sure there's

at least one stick in each of those

channels how do you know what you got

well unless you paid an awful lot for

your CPU you don't have 4 channels I

promise unless you bought a 39 50 X and

then you only have dual channel and

that's expensive too so I guess the

whole argument to split window alright I

guess a better way to say it if it

doesn't say thread Ripper or Intel

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based off the 7 main components I've

already said we've got three left

basically we've got power supply we've

got case we've got storage so case is

something I'm gonna shop for last

because it's just the box it's a box

that your parts go in it's an enclosure

and reason why it's an enclosure people

always wonder like gee why didn't you

just wait can't you just put a computer

on the desk

well by having an enclosure and having

fans and means you control the

environment you control the airflow it's

just the box to give you some sort of an

atmosphere to move air to keep things

nice and cool the only time the case is

gonna ever ever affect your system

performance is if you have terrible air

flow in your parts start thermal

throttling pass that if it fits your

motherboard and you go with the right

size case that matches your ATX form

factor so ATX

full sized ATX needs an ATX case em ATX

seen em ATX or an ATX you can always put

a smaller motherboard in a bigger case

but not the other way around unless you

really go with a dremel so I tend to

choose the case last because sometimes

it's the piece that I also buy used if I

have a very strict budget because it's

the least impactful on your system I

don't want to spend a lot of money there

because what you gain with a lot of

money spent on a case is aesthetics but

aesthetics at the end of the day we're

having a beautiful case like let's say

my Inman 9 to 8 but I've got a 500 all

our budget build crammed into it what

sense is that so it's really easy to

imbalance your system by spending too

much money on your case which is why

we're gonna go right to power supply now

power supplies are one of those things

that I think a lot of people tend to

overcomplicate as long as they're an 80

plus rated or higher and you're not

using some gray box that came out

some case with a power supply included

with it you're usually not going to run

into too much of a problem

mainstream systems and are not putting

extreme loads on the power supply with

running to overclock graphics cards and

a 16 core 32 thread CPU that's

overclocked and water-cooled you're very

rarely ever gonna notice that your power

supply is underpowered which is why I

tend to shop right around the 80 plus

gold rating so what that tells me is the

components used in the power supply are

better than average I've got better

capacitors the rail design is going to

be more improved and that eighty plus

rating is nothing more than an

efficiency rating it tells you how

efficient the power supply is to

generate the power advertised based on

the power it pulls from the wall what

you might find though is between gold

and like titanium it's like 2 or 3% at

the most in terms of efficiency levels

gold has the most power supplies in its

category a lot of people go right past

bronze or right past silver from bronze

to gold in terms of their power supply

designs and then right past gold -

titanium now kind of surpassing platinum

so gold is just where the best price of

performance ratio is going to be so

there's no reason to buy a super

expensive power supply you just need to

make sure it's sized properly for your

graphics card which is the most single

demanding power component in your system

it's gonna pull way more watts than your

CPU under load if you're doing gaming

your CPU hardly ever goes under a full

load anyway your graphics card as long

as it's not being bottlenecked will go

immediately to its max power draw to

give you all the performance it can

based on you know your settings and your

overhead and so what I'm gonna say is

that with the 2060 which is what the CPU

or the GPU is that we actually chose for

this build and again we'll do a full

ration out at the end calls for about a

500 watt power supply or like a 4 in a

watt power supply it's nothing crazy but

because of that efficiency curve like I

said when it comes to power supplies I

like to oversize my power supplies by a

good 15 20 percent at times so I'm gonna

actually shop between 500 and 600 watt

power supplies in 80 plus gold for this

particular system so it brings us to our

last component - case like I talked

about which is our storage now with

$1000 we don't have to make a lot of

sacrifices to our storage if we were

trying to shop at like a $500 price

point

then there's some sacrifices that need

to be made and I get pushback on this

all the time but the way I tend to build

my systems is one SSD that's as big as I

can afford while still affording a large

spinning drive to put large files large

games backups pictures music movie files

that are large in capacity that can

easily chew through an SSD that way I

can have both and the the best way the

cheapest way to get max storage is with

hard drives now a lot of people will say

yeah but J hard drives are perfectly

fine for your operating system and such

but I'm gonna tell you right now my

personal opinion on this matter is that

with how inexpensive SATA SSDs are today

there is no reason whatsoever you

shouldn't actually be going with a SATA

SSD for your main OS and your favorite

games and programs drive there fast I'm

sure they're not nvm ease you know 3500

megabytes per second but when it comes

to building a system like this a SATA

SSD in general use and clicking around

in your operating system and loading

programs that's the way that I tend to

do it now when it comes to sizing your

SSD things are a heck of a lot cheaper

than they used to be

so if you're searching for internal SSDs

just sort by the form factor two and a

half inch and then come down here to

capacity and it's kind of weird the way

Newegg brackets sees it's two hundred

and seventy six gigabytes to five

hundred and fifty we can get a 500

gigabyte crutial MX 500 which i've got

like three of them sitting in the box

over there because we've used them in so

many builds it's got an average of four

out of five eggs with 374 reviews so

that's one that I'm confident in in fact

I'll go ahead and add that one to the

cart but then like I said I always pair

that SSD because although 500 gigabytes

seems like a lot I always pair it with a

hard drive because with games now being

north of a hundred gigabytes like Red

Dead Redemption 2 is 116 gigabytes for

one game and then after Windows is

installed it's gonna eat like 60

gigabytes if your SSD and then once

windows partitions and all that you're

gonna loose a few more gigabytes to

partitioning you're gonna be left with

like three hundred and some-odd

gigabytes before you even installed your

first program other than your operating

system so you can

why having a spinning hard drive is also

worthwhile now I'm gonna give you a

little secret here spinning hard drives

seems Oh freakishly slow when their

housing your operating system which is

true boot times kind of suck compared to

SSDs I've gotten better but they

definitely are slow and then when your

operating system is on a spinning Drive

and you're loading programs that are

happening and the the platters having to

seek all over the place

you'll find load times are slow it's you

know you click on something you go to

the bathroom you come back and it's just

finishing up but when it's not handling

the operating system and it's just

sitting there on its own SATA controller

just waiting for you to call something

up its cache is not constantly having to

swap out if you're playing the same

games and stuff that are stored on your

hard drive and that's stored in cache

then it's gonna load very quickly in

fact we've done side by side comparisons

here with secondary SSDs and secondary

hard drives side-by-side and saw that

sometimes it's only 15 or so percent

faster on an SSD than a hard drive and

as long as you go with a decent hard

drive and a 7200 rpm and one that has a

large cache then what you're gonna find

is that having a hard drive is not

nearly as bad as a lot of people want to

make it out to be it's when you have the

operating system on there that that

tends to be a problem I also tend to go

with at least a 2 terabyte they're cheap

enough now there's no reason Seagate is

a very reputable brand you've got

Western Digital which is twice as as

much as Seagate but that's where you're

gonna want to do your research on

various hard drive types what the colors

mean because Western Digital is always

in like black blue green red and each

color is a different task it's designed

for and for 54 bucks and an average of 4

eggs out of 596 reviews Add to Cart so

what does that bring our grand total to

eight hundred and fifty four dollars and

eighty eight cents prior to tax our

total with tax is nine hundred and forty

four dollars and seventy eight cents

which only really leaves us about fifty

dollars for a case now like I said

already cases are extremely subjective

as long as they are giving you the

proper airflow and they could fit your

motherboard and all your components in

there and nothing interferes and touches

and you are fine looking at either a

beige box a black box with a steel

interior and you don't

it looks like you just want to play your

games you're gonna set it on the floor

in the closet and not look at it then

don't waste your money on an expensive

case but I can tell you right now that

things have definitely gotten a lot

better when it comes to cases in fact

there's a lot of brands out there too

I've never even heard of better that are

there so if we just shop computer cases

and we look for ATX full Tower we got a

lot of options that show up so you've

got the corsair carbide 200 R for 69

bucks that's technically out of our

price point but this is where you can

start to make a few adjustments here you

could potentially go down to a one

terabyte hard drive and save about ten

or fifteen bucks if you're not convinced

your need 2 terabytes you could step

down the graphics card maybe slightly

I'm confident in the fact that you can

find a case in here that you would want

to use I'd be fine with your parts it's

not gonna break the bank like we've got

this DIY PC black USB 3.0 ATX case and

it looks like it has fans actually so

that's the thing with cases though many

of them don't include fans and if they

do they're often garbage because they

know people are gonna put in whatever

fan that they want the problem is when

you can buy a Corsair 120 millimeter

light loop fan that costs $30 or more

per fan you can easily spend five

hundred dollars in a single case with

fans it's insane

so that's where you have to decide what

you were okay with spending but this fit

this actually looks like it has an

intake fan a side panel fan that blows

right down on your graphics card and the

rear exhaust fan and guess what it is

$33

it's got ATT reviews four out of five

eggs I will click that one into our into

our build $888 prior to tax and shipping

we've got no additional like warranties

sitting on here because sometimes it

likes to add a little three year

warranty there or without you knowing it

secure a checkout that brings our grand

total to nine hundred eighty eight

dollars and ninety eight cents the

subtotal shows one thousand eighteen

dollars because we're getting an Xbox

game pass card with our AMD CPU because

it's named deep deal and promo going on

right now so that's why it shows also a

- $29.99 for gift one that's what that

is so we did it we actually did $1000 PC

including tax and we didn't scrimp on

our parts and if we look at our parts

right here and what we chose you see

them in like a really weird order but

the case the DIY PC it's got a really

good review place hold a certain amount

of money there if you don't like the

case that I chose obviously that's

subjective land you have to decide what

case that you're gonna like just

remember airflow motherboards fitment

you know form factor that's gonna fit

all your stuff if you go with like a

really cheap $30.00 case and you somehow

scored a twenty seventy and it's a long

card it may not fit so that's those are

the kind of things you have to think

about our Seagate Barracuda 2 terabyte

drive which I already explained as to

why I chose that one our motherboard

p450 tomahawk max am for AMD motherboard

explained why with the PCI Express slots

the four times dims the beefy robust

built vrm it's the same generation as a

CPU that we chose which is an AMD Rison

5 2600 X 6 core 12 thread CPU so lots of

multi-threading taking place with that

16 gigabytes of g.skill ripjaws v-series

3200 megahertz so we know that if you

enable the do CP setting which will go

into BIOS and make it run at that speed

otherwise it'll run at base ddr4 speed

we know our AMD CPU is gonna love 3200

megahertz

we've got our MX 500 500 gigabyte SATA

SSD and then our graphics card this was

this is always the hardest one because

it's again it's the single most

expensive piece and there's a lot of

competition taking place in the CPU

Speight or a GPU space even amongst a

single Brannock NVIDIA has got cards

competing with itself which is kind of

crazy so we chose the brand-new EVGA

r-tx 2060 KO ultra the reason for that

the 2060 is about to come under serious

attack with the 5600 5600 XT AMD

graphics card coming out very soon it

was debuted at CES so what's kind of

happened here is the price point here

has sort of gotten more competitive or

now you can get a standard 2060 for

under 300 bucks $299 or you can get the

faster factory overclocked 2060 ko ultra

for 319 so for me personally I thought

the 20 bucks was

worth the extra price considering we're

getting it faster than a 2060 graphics

card for the cheaper than what a 2060

actually was just a month ago and it

didn't kill our budget we stayed within

budget and I wasn't gonna gain any

serious SSD storage space by saving the

20 bucks I wasn't gonna gain any serious

space when it came to our hard drive I

wasn't gonna go with a higher tier CPU

with that extra so what I do is like

okay I can save 20 bucks here and if I

spent that somewhere else what would I

gain would I gain another performance

tier of something and if the answer is

no then I stick with it which is what we

sort of did here and depending on what

the performance of the 5600 XT ends up

looking like this whole this part might

have changed but I have to go based on

what we have today and what's available

and that's what we chose so guys this

has just been my kind of a walkthrough

of how to pick your PC parts when

building your next gaming rig this is

kind of fun though we're gonna save this

parts list we might end up building this

system and benchmarking it I know it's

what a lot of other guys do I know Paul

does it up if Kyle does it to where

he'll kind of do a video picking parts

like this order all the stuff build it

benchmark it and go hey this is how it

went because like I said in the start of

this video the problem is almost

everyone teaches you how to build the

system but not many people ever tell you

how and walk you through picking your

parts phil has friends that build Pete

are building pcs and I have people that

are emailing me by the millions and it's

like the most common question we have is

not how does this part fit together

where does this plug in its how do I

choose what parts should I get what CPU

what graphics card because it's

confusing and like we said in one of our

other videos about one of reasons why

you may or may not want to build your

own PC one of the reasons we chose that

you may not want to is the overwhelming

amount of parts out here in your

overwhelming fear of having something be

incompatible or just making bad

decisions so if you guys like this video

do me a favor hit that thumbs up button

and subscribe if you're new around here

and why don't you go ahead and comment

down below how you would spend $1000 if

you were building a system here yes I

know $1,000 goes a lot farther in the US

and does in other countries so obviously

you'll have to adjust this based on your

market value and inflation and whatever

in your particular sector of the world

sector three Gamma Quadrant I don't know

whatever thanks for watching guys as

Holy as we'll see you in the next one

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